Eating My Way Through Rome

Food is a huge part of the Italian culture. Food is love. Food is family. Food is the beginning, middle and end of a conversation. Most of the shops and restaurants that have been around for decades here in Rome are owned and operated by families. The ownership, work and recipes are passed down from generation to generation and it makes the entire dining experience here heartwarming and special.

When I was doing research for this trip, I knew I wanted to experience Rome's food scene and I knew that tours could be a good way to do that. I came across a company called Eating Italy, which specializes in walking food tours around certain neighborhoods in Rome. You pick a neighborhood and a date, sign up and pay online, and show up at the meeting point on the day of your tour to experience the best that area has to offer. For four glorious hours you're guided through that neighborhood by a local English-speaking expert and given different kinds of food to try. I signed up for two of these tours. The first of which was a tour of Testaccio, the second, a tour of Trastevere.

Testaccio

Testaccio is often referred to as the "real" Rome, meaning the streets and the people are as authentic as it gets. Rome's foodie scene began in this area, as much of the Tiber River trade took place near here. Back in the day, food such as honey, sugar, wine and olive oil was transported in terra cotta pots called amphorae. In the center of Testaccio, there is a man-made hill called Monte Testaccio, which is stacked high with pieces of broken amphorae.

We learned quickly that Testaccio is the perfect place to go experience Roman cuisine at it's finest. Not to mention, it was a nice change to be away from the crowds that surround Rome's most popular attractions. We were the only tourists around!

So what did we eat? Well, what DIDN'T we eat?!

We started with an Italian breakfast staple, the cornetti, which is basically a croissant, which I'm already totally obsessed with. Cornetti come plain or might be stuffed with jam or custard. And we followed that up with Tiramisu in a mini chocolate cup. Tiramisu translates into "pick me up" in Italian, because traditionally, the dessert contains lady fingers soaked in espresso. Both delicious!

Cornetti and Tiramisu

We followed that up with a slice of Roman style margherita pizza, my mom's favorite and pretty much the only thing she ate the whole time we were in Italy years ago. My mom can thank Queen Margherita for the invention of this simple delight. Just homemade tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. The addition of basil, which most of us are used to seeing on margherita pizza in the states, is actually not an authentic Italian addition and most places here will give you just the plain cheese pizza with no basil or sometimes a piece of basil as a garnish. The Roman-style pizza crust is fairly thick (almost the same thickness of foccacia bread) so even one piece can be a hearty lunch.

Pizza Margherita

Then we headed to a salumeria to try prosciutto di San Daniele (I'm also totally obsessed with any kind of prosciutto), pecorino al tartufo (sheep's milk cheese with truffles) and parmigiano reggiano cheese. I generally don't like to eat anything associated with sheep. I don't like lamb and I haven't liked any sheep's milk cheese I've tried at home. But of course I wasn't going to pass up a chance to try the Italian kind. And I'm glad I did. I noticed right off the bat that the sheep's milk cheese in Italy is quite mild and less gamey than I had tasted before. It was quite delicious. 

Salumeria

Eating Italy's food tours, although filled with tons of great food, are also good for people who like to learn about the history of the city. In Testaccio, we stopped at the famous Protestant Cemetery, home to the grave of the poet John Keats. It's a gorgeous cemetery. As a kid I had this irrational fear of cemeteries and up until a few years ago, I wouldn't go anywhere near them. But things change. Now I don't think of them as creepy or scary. They can be beautiful places to visit. I'll likely go back here and spend some more time inside.

Protestant Cemetery

We followed that up with a visit to the large Testaccio outdoor food market. This market is different from the farmer's market's most of us are used to. It's not just huge but really organized. Every vendor has a large stand and after decades of being in the business they all know each other. It's not just a place where locals go to get their food, it's like a nice meeting place to catch up with old friends. At the market, we tried bruschetta (which I continue to pronounce correctly; confirmed by an actual Italian) and caprese salad made with buffalo mozzarella cheese. This was one of my favorite parts of the day. (So much so that I forgot to take pictures of it all.)

We also tried the famous Sicilian cannoli. (I get it now, Godfather, I'd "leave the gun, take the canolli," too.) The canolli we tried was made with sweetened sheep's milk ricotta cheese, chocolate chips and pistachio. And again, to my surprise, it was AWESOME.

Cannoli

Now you think at this point we'd be full but it was time for lunch. We walked to one of Testaccio's famous restaurants and tried three different kinds of pasta, including my personal favorite, pasta carbonara. Now this is where I learned that all the ridiculously good carbonaras I had tried at home were in fact, impostors. Real carbonara is made with egg yolks and no cream. Therefore it has a bright yellow color and is actually not as bad for me as I once thought. Carbonara is a Roman staple and is made with guanchale (cured pork cheek) instead of panchetta.

As if we still needed more food, we followed that up with a fried ball of goodness known as a suppli. This particular one was made of risotto with meat and cheese. I was so full at this point but I still ate it up faster than you can say suppli.

Pasta Carbonara

And finally, no meal is complete without dessert so we had to get some gelato. Before we got to eat, we got a lesson on what to look for if you want authentic gelato. For the record, it's mostly common sense. (Pistachio shouldn't be bright green, banana shouldn't be bright yellow, etc.) But I did learn that you can ask for free whipped cream to top it off and the smartest thing is to get a combination of flavors like chocolate and hazelnut or my choice today, almond and pistachio.

Pistachio and almond gelato with whipped cream

After these few hours I needed a major nap. I'm talking serious carb-induced coma here. But I was so happy that I chose to do this tour and I was delighted to make some friends along the way. Shout out to Peggy and Barb from Toronto and thanks to our guide, Domenico and Eating Italy for a great tour!

Trastevere

Trastevere is just across the river from central Rome's famous ruins and yet when you're walking around you feel a very down-to-earth neighborly appeal. By night, this is the place locals go out to bars and clubs. But by day, it's peaceful, quiet and laden with the images of those romantic narrow cobblestoned streets we're all used to seeing in movies. It's also a center for great food.

My second Eating Italy tour was here in Trastevere and it was spectacular. I got to the meeting sight early so I could drink a breakfast cappuccino. And it tasted just as magical as it looks. The food tour began with a small creme puff-like pastry. And I could have eaten 15 of them. Then another suppli, this time, the standard Roman style of risotto cooked with a tomato and meat sauce, rolled into a ball with a piece of mozzarella, breaded and fried.

Can you think of a better way to start the day?

The next stop was one of two highlights of the day for me. We got to try porchetta, an amazingly delicious boneless pork roast. The pig is deboned and stuffed with salt, pepper and rosemary and slow roasted, traditionally over wood. The porchetta we tried was as authentic as it comes because it was imported from Ariccia in central Italy, where this type of roast originated. The crispy pork skin has a rich taste and intense crunch and when you take a bite of that along with the juicy salty meat, you just want to do a happy dance. I wanted to take that giant roast home with me!!

Porchetta (AKA I've died and gone to pork heaven)

Now it was time to hit up the small Trastevere market for some fresh fruit, jam and cheese. I love jam and I haven't really had it with cheese before. But I'm all about trying new things and the combination of savory and sweet was delicious. And you can't go wrong with blood oranges from Sicily!

Fruit and cheese with jam from the market

We followed that up with more margherita pizza and then some delicious gelato before sitting down for a pasta and wine lunch. We devoured our ravioli, fettucine with mushrooms and Rome's specialty carbonara as we sipped a white wine blend. The sun was shining and sitting outside to lunch was super relaxing.

Three pasta lunch

After our carb overload, we went to an old family-owned cookie factory to try some of the delicious cookies they bake fresh multiple times a day. As expected, it smelled incredible in there!

If only the Cookie Monster knew about this place!

Our final stop was extra special. We went to a place called Spirito di Vino, one of the top restaurants in all of Rome that's located in a building that's older than the Colosseum! We got to tour the ancient wine cellar and later sat down for some moscato dessert wine and a delicious cold Italian version of creme brulee. It was rich and incredibly delicious!

Last stop with the group in Trastevere

Amazing creme brulee

I had a great time, thank you to our guide Jasmin and Eating Italy for another great tour. Now if you'll excuse me, I need to go jog around Rome four or five HUNDRED times...